What I love about Pottery Barn furniture is that the paint looks rubbed off, but the finish still maintains a low lustre sheen. PolyShades provides both the beautiful color of a wood stain and the protective aspects of a polyurethane finish in a single product. Minwax Classic Black Polyshades in a Satin finish worked perfectly to create this look. The Minwax Company produces the PolyShades line of wood finish for use with any wooden object other than flooring. My favorite is Minwax Gloss Pecan Poloyshades. Some are Pine, Some are Oak, they are bare wood at this point. I've used Minwax stains before but not the 1 step Polyshades. Minwax ® Water Based WoodSheen ® Rubbing Stain and Finish makes wood finishing fast and easy. This simple to use stain allows you to achieve beautiful color and a classic, hand-rubbed finish in minutes. Shake Minwax® Wipe-On Poly container thoroughly before and during use to eliminate settling on the bottom of the can. With polyshades I have a problem with it “gunking up”. But by the time I got to my doors, I was running out of steam, so I decided they were perfect candidates for Minwax® PolyShades®, a combination stain and finish in one can. Then lightly sand entire surface with fine sandpaper (220 grit) to ensure an even finish and proper adhesion. There are two types of Minwax stains: oil-based and water-based. Is there something I can use as a topcoat to make it more durable? I know that Minwax Polyshades is supposed to be “all in one step”, but I still want to topcoat it. Water-based Minwax stains… And it almost has this plastic look to it and I know that if I were to put a glass on the table it would not slide due to the almost plastic like finish. I would like to stain them Black and tried a test piece of pine with the Black Minwax Polyshades. Let dry 2-3 hours. I will let you know how it goes Thanks again Marg Jackman Polyshades is a stain with the polurethane topcoat built right in so you only have the one step of applying the stain. Years ago, on one of my first PolyShades® projects, I learned that foam brushes make sloppy applicators, as they apply an uneven coat and leave behind a trail of bubbles. Most stains I brush on or wipe on and walk away. I may just leave it at a 4th coat of the thinned Polyshades or I may just get a small can of regular Polyurethane or as suggested by epicfail48, purchase paste wax. Hey painting Pros, I have some 16x20 picture frames. My only problem with polyshades is application. For example, some Minwax polyurethane is recommended for use on wood surfaces only, while others can be used on both wood and metal surfaces. And it's low odor, fast drying, and soap and water clean up. I like the look of the stain and gloss but I do not like the brush marks. The way I do polyshades is I brush it on. I am going to bring back the quart of Helmsman Spar Urethane and the quart of Minwax Fast Drying Polyurethane. Apply a liberal amount of Wipe-On Poly to a clean, soft, lint-free cloth and rub it into the wood. A Minwax stain is a penetrating oil-based stain that comes in different colors depending on the preference of the user. In general, I think working with any stain is tricky, at least for me, but when I read your plea for help, I recalled hearing somewhere that this product was extra difficult to work with. It enhances the beauty of wood, and it is normally used for staining indoor woods such as cabinets, wooden floors, and doors. Whatever type you choose, you need to take some extra measures when applying the Minwax polyurethane in temperatures that are below 40 degrees. I have used a lot of polyshades. The way I do not like the look of the user 40 degrees Barn furniture that. 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